The twin of this Geoffrey Beene dress was showcased in the Met Museum's exhibit 'In America: A Lexicon of Fashiont' and that dress resides in their permanent collection. This was already one of his most iconic dresses and it is now even more so after the exhibit and being included in the accompanying book. The dress is heavily documented and was photoed extensively the year that it debuted. It is an extraordinary dress
The cut of the dress is so perfectly simple. It is made out of a black very light wool jersey that has an almost soft t-shirt feel to it. The dress is unlines and the jersey has perhaps the slightest bit of transparency in certain lights, which only adds to its sensuality. The sleeves are long and sleek. Each one ends in a hidden set zipper and their edges are finished in a black silk ribbon. That same black silk ribbon edges the neckline. The dress is cut to skim over you at the front with slight shaping through the waist. It curves back out over the hips and then falls to the floor where it widens out. At the back, you see that bare expanse of skin which is what makes the dress so famous. It hooks at the back of the neck and then it curves out and around to a very low dipping back. Insets of a pale silk chiffon curve down and into the sides of the hip seams to give the illusion that you are even more bare than you actually are. Where are those inserts end, the seams extend down and curved to the front where they run down towards the centre hem. This clever bit of seaming helps to shape the dress around you and continues that curved feeling that the open back gives. It is quite genius. One of the most iconic dresses ever made. Excellent condition with a minor note below.
The dress is unlined and slips over the head to wear. It hooks at the back of the neck. Ribbon finished inner seams and hidden set zippers at each cuff. Tagged a vintage Beoffrey Beene 8. I see two teeny tiny repairs near the centre back seam. The jersey has stretch through the body and the comfortable range of the measurements are below
Sleeves: 24” and 14-16" around the upper arm
Shoulders: 15”
Bust: 17-20” flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 12-16” flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 18-22” flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: 61”
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4871
Reference Photos: (1-5) Fall 1989 Geoffrey Beene (credits unknown) / (6) Model in Geoffrey Beene for Mirabella magazine, 1989, photographed by Michael O'Neill. / (7) Part of The MET Collection online. / (8) Image from the book "In America: A Lexicon of Fashion" that accompanied the MET Exhibit of the same name.
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